PARIS (AP) — Kenzo’s designer, Nigo, discovered his groove for his sophomore assortment on the LVMH-owned home, drawing vibrant parallels with home founder Kenzo Takada.
Nigo has made historical past as the primary Japanese designer to entrance the home since Takada, who died in 2020.
However past the style, Nigo — who has made excessive profile collaborations with Pharrell — has actual star attraction, as soon as once more pulling in high VIPs this season equivalent to Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel.
Listed below are some highlights of Sunday’s spring-summer 2023 menswear collections in Paris.
KENZO’S BACK IN THE GROOVE
Set in a school corridor and with a pervading 70s, preppy vibe, Nigo channeled the dazzling colours and mix-and-match cultural fusion that grew to become synonymous with the home’s origins.
Hanging from the roof have been flags studying “Kenzo 1970.” For college kids of vogue, a reference not misplaced: This date was not solely the yr Takada introduced his first vogue present within the Galerie Vivienne in Paris in entrance of his new store, Jungle Jap, however it was additionally the yr of Nigo’s start.
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Funky scarves, a tackle Boy Scout kinds, morphed into coloured lapels on fits that riffed on uniform.
A shiny yellow patch-loaded waistcoat had an African vibrancy and blended with Breton striped scarves, nautical themes and Asian cross-over kinds in jackets. It created a dynamic cultural melting pot.
But it surely was the quirkiness and humor that outlined spring-summer on this robust present — thick woolen socks on canary yellow flip flops, crimson flower appliques and multicolored bowler hats.
Nigo, 51, is just the second Asian designer on the head of a European excessive vogue label, alongside Bally’s Filipino-American Rhuigi Villaseñor. His appointment continues to signify a milestone as the luxurious trade wrestles extra broadly with questions over racism and variety.
WOOYOUNGMI’S GENTLE CONTRADICTIONS
Sobriety met moments of punk in South Korean designer Wooyoungmi’s assortment on Sunday, held within the ornate interiors of Paris’ Musee des Arts Decoratifs.
Stylish tailoring on fits, equivalent to a double breasted quantity that opened the present with a fragile nip on the waists, contrasted with white sneakers and vests. It made for a deft play in contradiction.
Pants have been a giant theme — designed in a classy 90s dishevelled model. They hung in a ravishing curved form on the backside of the leg.
There have been moments of sensuality — and humor — all through this 42-piece co-ed present. One tactile and semi-transparent blue punk vest was worn by a mannequin with greasy grungy hair who held a complicated sq. leather-based bag.
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